Sailing on Lucky Duck: Steve and Lynn on the High Seas

Just a Bunch of Stuff, Including Dolphins and Bees

Here I am again.  Steve and I have the only boat in a tiny bay near Coral Bay. Supposedly we are doing boat chores this morning.  Steve just stepped on the light bulb he was going to install and shredded it to smithereens.  It appears he is finding other stuff to do that requires tools.  Every morning our upper settee is disrupted and cushions are every which way to allow for the big guy to reach into the lockers beneath for needed parts or tools.  As I’m sure you are aware, what you see on a boat is not the only thing you get. Everything is hidden in spaces tucked away to save space.  It takes some practice before this doesn’t drive you crazy.  Almost every act requires a cushion lifted.  But that’s okay.  It builds mental and physical strength, I’m sure. 

I just hung some wash on a line Steve erected between two standing sheets.  No, I’m not hanging sheets.  These sheets are like thick metal rods that hold our mainsail in place.  Speaking of hanging bed sheets: We know a woman who WASHES her KING-SIZED sheets in the galley sink!  This woman is no kid either.  I just can’t imagine all the wringing out that would require.  She must just love doing wash by hand.  It must give her a wonderful pioneer feeling that makes her day.

We met this cool couple from Minneapolis who cruise on an absolutely darling, 32-foot sailboat with a dark, green hull with a red stripe.  When they bought Eileen Donan ten years ago she was a mess and they have worked hard to make her shine.  Every year, the first month Vanessa and George spend in the islands is used to do boat improvements. They spend about four months in the Caribbean altogether annually.  They are of some age that is only approaching middle age. It’s terribly fascinating to figure out how cruisers who are not retired work this into their employment.  When asked, Vanessa and George told us that in Minneapolis she bartends and he works as a security guard.  Every year when they return to the north they get new jobs.  Aren’t they just too cool? Yesterday when we ran into them on land, Vanessa was just getting ready to do a run on a trail on Leinster Bay. She showed us her hand-held GPS that she carries.  I’m not sure why you need one when you run.  I mean, most people don’t run all that far so they wouldn’t get lost.  Maybe she either runs very far or just loves little gadgets.

Earlier that morning they told us a story that made us a little green with envy.  The day before, in Leinster Bay, Vanessa spotted two dolphins, a mother and her calf.  Immediately, brave Vanessa jumped into the water to frolic with the family. (I don’t think jumping into the water would have even dawned on me!)  Most wild dolphins won’t stay with a human while the person is in the water with them. For some reason the mother and baby played with Vanessa.  She said the only time she was somewhat scared was when the baby charged at her.  (Uh-huh, I think I’d clench.) At the last moment the little guy dove right beneath her and came up behind her.  Vanessa was thrilled with her swimming partners and said that she almost choked laughing so hard into her snorkel.  Steve and I saw one dolphin quickly swim by our boat last year and another one made a cameo appearance this year.  I wonder if some swim by and we’re oblivious of their presence!  Vanessa and George said that over the past ten years they have seen very few dolphins.  Vanessa’s swim with the dolphins was a once in a lifetime happening!

We had a fun drink with Doug and Kathy on Aeolus while we were again in Leinster Bay. I think it was in my last entry that I mentioned that Doug had told us that few West Indians swim. I forgot to mention to them that while we were staying in Coopers Bay, a beach party was held at the beach club one Saturday afternoon.  It was a birthday party for a West Indian kid about junior high age.  He had about 35 friends for a sunny afternoon on the beach.  The interesting thing was that out of all those kids we only saw three kids jump off the dock and swim; volley ball and other activities were the name of the game. The aquamarine water didn’t draw them in.  It sounds like I’m doing a sociological study but it is such fun to make cultural observations in a new environment. Back to the beach party, how many parties have their guests arrive in a ferry?!  Plus, the ferry was the cutest I’ve ever seen; it was small and newly painted in happy designs.  Happy Birthday, whoever you are!

Later today … Steve and I just got back from a dinghy excursion. One of our pleasures is to explore the shoreline of bays.  We went from our bay across from Coral Bay to the ins and outs of other little bays.  On the way I almost got Steve Irwined.  I love to sit in the dinghy with one foot dangling in the water. Honestly, in my estimation it’s better than an hour in a hot tub.  That pure clean jade-colored water running through my toes is heaven.  As we are motoring along I saw a big brown rock up ahead.  At the last minute, about a foot from the so-called rock, I brought my foot inside.  The rock turned out to be an 18 inch brown stingray.  I have a feeling he may have been pissed had I kicked him.  I remember swimming with stingrays in the Cayman Islands years ago.  They were big brothers and loved the tourists to pet them.  But, for this article at least, I’m sure my stingray an hour ago could have done me in! Also on our way, we saw jelly fish that looked exactly like shower caps I’ve used in many hotels.   They were about 12 inches in diameter, transparent, of course, and they even had something that looked like the elastic that keeps said shower caps in place.  Another good reason not to drag a foot!  Last year we snorkeled among lots, and I mean lots, of little jelly fish.  Not a one stung us.  Speaking of creatures that hurt, yesterday right after we got into this bay, a giant, and I mean giant, bee flew onto our aft deck where we were innocently sitting.  The bee was two inches long and needed to have its legs shaved!  They were that heavy, black, thick hair that let’s you know you are not dealing with an ordinary insect but one that could send you to Peebles hospital (the despicable place I wrote about last year). It really looked like a flying, buzzing tarantula!  I took over the situation because Steve hates dealing with insects.  So, acting quickly, I got it cornered in the round part of a gunwale drain and covered it up IMMEDIATELY with the round bottom of a sunblock can.  Pretty shrewd, huh?!  We made it stay that way for about an hour.  When I lifted the can the big boy started to resurrect.  On went the can again.  Eventually the creepy killer inched its way down the drain and into eternity.

One more thing … Nate the son, not Nathan the son-in-law, comes on February 9!  Yeah!  Can’t wait!

My Birthday and Other Stuff

Yesterday Steve and I landed  in Village Cay Marina off Road Town, Tortola . As much as we love the cool, pristeen ocean, it’s a nice change to be in a city for a couple days. We have certain things we especially like about Road Town . Right on the ocean, right off the marina and in a parking lot is an air painted van that serves BBQ right out of its side. In the front of the vehicle, juicy ribs are smoked and grilled. Last night we ordered two rib meals with yellow rice, potato stuffing and coleslaw for a mere $19! The ribs were succulent and saucy and the sides nummy West Indian. Lots   of local folks buy take-away after work and so far, after four visits, we’re the only white customers that we’ve seen. Last year I asked the guy at the window if we were the only white patrons. He didn’t get that I wanted to be the only white customer and reassured me that lots of whites buy their ribs right at that spot. I still think we’re   special. Tonight we’re going back for the barbecue chicken. Last night before we arrived they ran out of potato salad. I’m hot to have it tonight. Also, we love to walk up the dock and pop into a laundry and have a nice woman do our wash for a mere sum. This week I didn’t have lots of clothes to wash but had four towels and queen-sized sheets and shams plus some clothes and the bill only came to $12. It’s sometimes hard to find a laundry when the time comes to sweeten the sheets and towels so it’s a real treat to know that "mom" in Road Town is willing to take ours in.

Because we have water right attached to the dock at the marina, we can use water like crazy. When I shower I don’t have to ration by wetting down, turning off the faucet, then soaping up. Electricity can also be used like we’re crazy teenagers. Our big  power cord is plugged into the dock and along with the water, our use is measured by a meter and we’ll be charged before we leave tomorrow. Another big plus in Road Town is shopping. There are big grocery stores (that charge a fortune, of course) and the selection seems endless after almost a month of slimmer pickins.’ Yesterday we spent a small fortune on oodles of food and then walked down the street three blocks with a brimming shopping cart to our boat. Our 24-pack of Presidente beer kept slipping off the bottom of the cart. This pissed-off Steve to no end because he really didn’t want to walk the groceries home in the first place. Eventually I took the beer out of its shallow cardboard case and just threw the cans on top of our plastic shopping bags. Everything got home safe and sound and only one egg broke.

Today Steve is changing the oil in the engine and the generator. What a hot, tight ordeal. The space he is in is so small that he sometimes has to shimmy to get out. It’s also a very dirty process. The whole floor in our upper settee is opened up to display the inner workings of the boat. The teak floor around it is slick with oil so tomorrow before we take off I’ll wash the floor. Today my job is to stay nearby to hand him oil jugs and wrenches. 

Last week on the big sea we were social butterflies. You may have noticed that from our site you can reach a blog that is written by Louise on Lulu. Steve has been e-mailing Louise questions for a few years since he first found her site. One day when we were in Caneel Bay they dinghied by and Steve noticed Lulu was written on their dinghy. That started a whole conversation that included drinks one night and dinner at the Fat Virgin the next. I think their Oyster is 65-feet long and if I’m not mistaken they have been sailing that very same big boat since they were virgin sailors seven years ago. Like us they had no experience beforehand. Gary (Mr. Louise) is very handy and confident and they seem to have the aplomb to handle their big boat like pros. I also should mention they didn’t start sailing until they were in their early  sixties. They really like feeling ageless out here.

After being with Louise and Gary, I resentfully had to do laundry at a Laundromat. I especially felt put-upon that week because I’m sure the Gary and Louise team have a washer and dryer on their boat. I am a small person. Well, we went over to Leverick Bay a resort that had very nice facilities. While we waited to score machines we sat near beautiful blooming plants from which a humming bird   was feeding. Once in a while   orioles would pop out of the bush and try to scare the hummer away. During this lovely time we met a couple from Florida, Jay and Kathy. During our laundry conversation it was revealed that they are former members of a symphony orchestra. Jay plays the beautiful oboe and Kathy, the trombone. Kathy is still in a big band orchestra that plays at events. Jay is down here longer than Kathy as she still teaches music part time. It was fun having dinner with them the next night because I got ask them about their music careers.  Their boat is littler than ours at 36 or 38 feet. It has a canoe stern (so very cute) but that makes the inside even smaller. They have only once bathroom and because it is paneled in teak, they can’t shower there. They use a sun shower on their  deck. I’d never get the soap out of my hair! Both Gary and Louise and Kathy and Jay were on their way to St. Thomas . Because of the size differences between their boats it would take the first couple 10 hours to get there and  Kathy and Jay about 16 hours. Just some useless trivia for you folks back home.

My big, fat, birthday was on Sunday. Whooppee ding! But we had a lovely day. We were in Great Harbour on Peter Island and walked to the big, luxury resort on the other side for lunch. On the way there, it is a must to walk past Conrad’s house. He is a darling islander who tends cats and goats and collects all forms of junk.  Because those of us who use the resort must traipse over his property, it is de rigeur to give Conrad a few bucks and shoot the bull with him. He is an older guy and has rheumy eyes that probably don’t see a thing. A character for sure, I wouldn’t be surprised if he mostly lives on cruiser’s gratuities.  The resort was big and beautiful. As a former gardener, I loved seeing   the huge assortment of tropical flowers and plants studded with name markers for my enlightenment. We ate at their beach grill and listened to steel drum music. Every once in a while one of their waitresses would get up on the stage and with a hibiscus in her hair, do a traditional island dance. We sat between tables of people from England and one couple had a little baby. After a couple of beers and a mango and plantain salad I was in heaven and didn’t give a rip about gaining   another year in my sixties! To make the day even more special, we had dinner on Yvonne and Bert’s gorgeous boat that night! Before I go any further, I have to tell you that when we got home that night I told Steve that going from their boat to ours is a little like going from a mansion on   Summit   Avenue to an apartment on Grand Avenue. And, I think I say that with no resentment but only humor. Bert served champagne to celebrate my dratted birthday before the meal and Yvonne brought out crackers topped with salmon and capers. To begin our feast we enjoyed a fresh salad that had chopped fruit and other nice bits on top. A chicken breast with a marvy sauce studded with olives (we shot the pits overboard) and thin French beans and yellow rice. To top off the meal, a key lime pie arrived just when I needed something sweet. We ate outside on their jazzy deck, enjoying the sounds of Harry Belafonte and Chicago, Yvonne’s enduring favorite group. It was quite a lovely way   to spend and end a birthday! Thanks to both of you for treating us so well!
   

I have blabbed on for an eternity. This is what happens when you no longer work and have free time on your hands. I’ll bet I’ve lost the attention of many of you. You are probably not even with me anymore but are now reading the blog from Lulu!   

Waiting Out the Weather in Style

Steve and I are on the north end of Virgin Gorda, moored at the Bitter End. It is very windy at sea and this is a stylin’ place to wait for calmer weather. In fact, someone in the “know” rated it in the upper ten of the world’s most gorgeous locations. As we bob up and down on our mooring ball, we look at beautiful big sail boats and darling cabana-like cottages   propped on the green hillside. The Bitter End is a fine resort that also caters to sailors. We give them business in their dining   rooms, bars and shops. They in turn will do our wash, sell us diesel fuel and propane gas and take our   trash. It is always a gold mine to find a place to take our trash. It’s not nice to live on a little boat with stinky garbage.

A few days ago we had drinks with our friends, Kathy and Doug. They have a 60’ schooner moored in Leinster Bay at St. John. You may remember from an entry I wrote last year that they are from Texas but have lived down here for seven   years. After a dinghy ride to shore, Doug gets in his car and drives to a small private school where he teaches middle school math. Kathy is the volunteer bay host in the area and works to keep the water, reefs and fish in perfect order. I could never tire of listening to Doug describe his work with the kids. Until three years ago, he taught in the public school here in Virgin Gorda. He was the only white person in the building as the students; teachers and principal were all West Indian. During his tenure at that school, he thrived on the academic response  he got from the kids. Lavish with his praise and generous with his time, the kids were able to soak up math like a sponge … hey, maybe like a sea sponge! Most West Indians don’t know how to swim. It’s a strange fact since many of them spend their life near water or actually working on it. Doug’s theory is that when they are little, they see sharks, barracudas and lobsters taken out of the water. Their long, large forms and sharp teeth could discourage any child from venturing into the ocean. It may mark them as landlubbers forever.  Ready to move on and resume living in the States, Kathy and Doug have their beautiful 60’ schooner for sale. The Virgin Islands are certainly going to miss them!

Steve is doing boat chores this morning. He’s in the dinghy, moving around   Gustie washing hatches along the way. Everything gets salty. One of these fine days I will wet-dust the interior with vinegar water. The current windiness really brings a  lot of salty air into the interior.  I won’t wash every bit of teak at this point but just the areas that collect dust. I thought of doing it this morning but   decided I could procrastinate by writing!

If you want to get a hold of us (that is if we can access you!) please e-mail us sjkluz at yahoo dot com. We love to get mail! I may be in paradise but I still get homesick. How do people live away from their families full time?! See you!

Of Governors and Paparazzi and Iguanas

Happy New Year! 

Steve and I arrived in Sopher’s Hole, Tortola,in the BVIs, on December 29th. Gustie, our 42-foot mono hull sail boat looks pretty darn good but may be just a bit longer in the tooth than last year. She withstood her months on land, living in a pit, hiding from hurricanes. Sometimes boats will come back full of mildew but that wasn’t the case with our girl. She received a good vinegar and water wash (wiped down thoroughly inside) before she was put away to prevent that from happening. Steve had wrapped his tools; screwdrivers, wrenches, pliers in oil soaked rags (my old pajamas) but rust still attacked the metal. During our systems check Steve discovered our freezer wasn’t working. After being messed with by our handyman, it was pronounced dead. Now we’re hoping to discover we can get by without a freezer. So far, our ice (utterly important for cocktail hour) is staying frozen on the bottom of our fridge. 

Right now we are hanging out in Caneel Bay, outside of St. John. Yesterday we spent time in Cruz Bay, the lovely town not far from our boat. We took our new and bigger dinghy to the ferry dock. Speaking of our new and near perfect dinghy, the extra foot in length is a godsend. Who would ever think a foot could make such a difference in personal comfort? While we were wandering around town, we came to Emancipation Park, where townspeople, the women dressed in black skirts and pure, white blouses, were waiting for the new governor, his wife and their entourage to arrive on a boat. Of the three islands, it was St. John’s turn to honor him and his lieutenant governor at an all day inauguration. The bandstand in the park was thoroughly fitted for the occasion in mums and roses and a high school band was squeaking out welcoming marches. We saw one dolled-up little girl, who must have had good pitch, wearing a frown while she kept her hands over her ears. The whole setting was very island and very hometown at the same time. After the gov and his peeps arrived there was a lot of fawning and hand shaking going on. We stood on the fringe of the affair as onlookers. Before you could say “Jack Robinson” (an old expression my mother used to use … are you familiar with it?) His Excellency was standing before us and we, too, became fawners. We shook his mighty hand and had a short congratulatory conversation. His body guards, well-equipped with might and brawn, stood on the sidelines waiting for catastrophe. We were pleased to witness this U.S. Virgin Islands grand occasion. We have heard that this governor was a good choice and we wish him, his family and staff well. 

Before we left for town yesterday, Steve noticed a speedboat anchored next to Gustie. Beside the boat’s driver were two men spying intently on the jazzy resort in front of our bay. They were using binoculars and eventually when a boat pulled out of the resort, they pulled out cameras with telephoto lenses covered with the dopey disguise of a terry cloth hand towels. Before we got a close look at the men, we thought they might be bird watchers. On closer inspection, we could see they were weasels, but not the kind that would be interested in common ornithology. They had that thin, cocaine-look about them. They were paparazzi!  Eventually the paparazzi pulled out and followed the boat that had left the resort. We heard later that it was rumored that Brad and Angelina were visiting the island. Maybe one of you saw them somewhere else. Let me know if you did.

Today we are taking a taxi from that resort mentioned in the last chapter to the Westin Hotel. It is supposed to be quite lush and lovely and used extensively for island photo shoots. We have to see this lush and loveliness! At 4 PM we will watch their large iguana collection and enjoy dinner. It will be gross and wonderful all at the same time. It is said that they have some mighty large iguanas. I bet you can’t wait to hear just how big they are! Actually I’m a small fan of iguanas but absolutely phobic about snakes. Once when we were in Costa Rica, our friend Tim Forsythe, enjoyed eating iguana at a meal. Of course, it tasted like chicken.